HALLS CREEK, FITZROY CROSSING, DERBY

So, slowly southwards we travel, down Highway 1, heading through Warmun  / Turkey Creek  to Halls Creek, Fitzroy Crossing then Derby..

A couple of times we have started out with an intention to stay at Warmun / Turkey Creek but each time circumstances have led us to keep driving through to Halls Creek.

We also had the option to stay at Mabel Downs, the gateway (and closest park) to the Bungles but we have never had any real desire to visit there. This I guess is a little strange because it seems to be a highlight for many people we meet. We have considered it three times now and each time we decide that the degree of difficulty is too high.

The road through Warmun / Turkey Creek to Halls Creek is cattle country and largely unfenced so a good lookout for stock is required. We had to slow and stop a number of times to avoid wandering cattle. The dried remains of many cattle bore testament to the number of collisions that have occurred.

For us, Halls Creek was just an overnight stop. There is quite a nice bakery in the main street run by a Greek family. We called in there on the way out of town for excellent pastries and good coffee! Here’s a couple of nice bird pics from  Halls Creek.

This Pied Butcher Bird loved to join us at Breakfast

No shortage of Black Kites in Halls Creek !

If you do pass this way, take a trip out to Old Halls Creek on the Duncan Highway (4WD) and also visit Caroline Pool, a nice oasis. A visit to the China Walls is also recommended, it’s close to town. We had visited all of these sights on a previous trip.

The Halls Creek Visitors Information Centre is first class, superior to many larger towns and cities.

Our next stop was Fitzroy Crossing and we stayed at Fitzroy Lodge on the banks of the Fitzroy and it was actually flowing this visit. On our two previous trips to this area the Fitzroy has been an “underground river,” still flowing deep under the red sand.

The Fitzroy, still flowing in July 2013

We visited Geike Gorge just for a drive one afternoon and had a brief wander around without taking the National Parks cruise, we’d been there before and it’s nothing like the well organised cruise of Katherine Gorge.

We were keen to get going and left after two days headed for Derby.

I don’t quite know why, but Derby has become one of our preferred places to stay a few days. I suppose it’s because of the living history of the place, the interesting things to be found thereabouts including, of course, the Derby Jetty.

One rather startling example of past practices is shown on the interpretive display at the old Derby Gaol, a sad example of Government sanctioned (in fact legislated) mistreatment of the local Aboriginal people. It is a picture of Aboriginal men prisoners in chains.

Following the introduction of the Aborigines Act of 1905, Aboriginal people (generally men) could be and were gaoled for relatively simple offences like leaving their home area or employer without permission, for failing to work, for spearing cattle, for being in possession of stolen beef or many other offences. Some were held for weeks or months because they were witnesses in other proceedings.

These Aboriginal men probably didn't know why they were being held in chains.

There were also stories concerning the forced removal of Aboriginal children – the stolen generations, just incomprehensible by today's standards.

Old Derby Gaol is a sad and very sobering example of times past.

Another example of hard times past but not forgotten is the grave of William Richardson, a member of the West Kimberley Police who was “killed by blacks” at Lillmaloora Station on 31^st October 1894 “in the execution of his duty”. His grave and memorial  is still in good condition in the Derby cemetery after 129 years.

His grave and memorial  is still in good condition in the Derby cemetery after 129 years.

The Derby wharf is a major attraction to the many tourists that pass through Derby every day. Tourists (including yours truly) take delight in driving and / or walking over it, some while towing their caravans (not I). It’s also a place to gather before sunset with a drink or two and some nibbles to watch the sun go down. It’s a great place to photograph the sunset as well.

Sundowners on the Derby wharf

Sunset from Derby Wharf

NEXT STOP BROOME

Regards

TJ